Wednesday, September 29, 2021

Wills House, Gettysburg, Adams County

As some of my readers may remember, September is my birthday month. I was the unlucky kid who would start school every year during the week of her birthday. As an adult this hasn't been a problem, though, and I usually take some kind of a day trip to mark the occasion. This year was a minor milestone, so my husband Kevin and I fulfilled a standing wish of mine to visit Gettysburg. After all, what kind of a Pennsylvania historian doesn't make at least one pilgrimage to the site of one of the biggest battles of the Civil War? 

I will admit that, growing up, I never quite grasped the full significance of Gettysburg. I know we covered it in school, but my memories of the lessons have mostly faded; but I stuffed my brain with all kinds of interesting discoveries during this trip and I truly enjoyed myself. Much like Brother Genitivi in the Dragon Age games, I don't know how to take a vacation without learning as much as I can about wherever I am. 

A quick shout-out to Larry at the For The Historian bookshop on York Street! Larry was kind enough to express interest in my blog as I was buying research materials and even accepted a small pile of my business cards to give to his regulars. If you're in Gettysburg, definitely drop in on the store.

Of course, the big thing that everyone in this country remembers about Gettysburg is a little two-minute speech known as the Gettysburg Address. It has its own marker, which I photographed and will be covering on another occasion, but today I'm going to tell you about a related location. Abraham Lincoln slept here.

The marker stands just outside the house
at 8 Lincoln Square
The star of this week's quest is not President Lincoln himself, but a Gettysburg resident named David Wills. Wills was born February 3, 1831 in Menallen Township, Adams County. He moved to Gettysburg at the age of 13 when he became a student at Pennsylvania College, known today as Gettysburg College (and which is bar none one of the most picturesque colleges I've ever seen). After graduating, he moved to Alabama for a year to serve as an academy principal, then came back to Pennsylvania; in 1853 he settled in Lancaster and began to study law under Thaddeus Stevens, one of my personal favorite historical figures. He then relocated to Gettysburg to open his own law practice. In 1856 he married Catherine Jane Smyser, and they had seven children - five daughters and two sons.

Wills was a very important figure in the little borough. He was elected burgess (basically the mayor) and also the first  Superintendent of Schools in Adams County, so it became his job to draw up plans for the school system. Additionally, he was a director of the Bank of Gettysburg and a trustee of three different schools, including his alma mater Pennsylvania College; later in life he became a judge. He lived in and worked out of a large and very beautiful brick house, built in approximately 1814, on the southeast corner of the town's main square.

And then history came knocking.

There were two things in particular that I never understood about the battle of Gettysburg. One was just how big it was; it's well known that the battle ran for three whole days, but I guess in my head I always imagined that the battlefield was roughly the size of a football field, and that the town sort of sprang up afterward. Turns out that the battlefield is literally miles across, and the community was already there when the fighting started. The other thing I never understood was, well, why Gettysburg? As it was explained to us on the tour we took, Gettysburg was not a significant community; it was small and had no particularly notable industries or resources that the Confederates wanted to commandeer. What it had instead was roads. There were ten well-traveled roads leading into and out of Gettysburg, making it a significant location in terms of troop movements, commerce, and travel, and General Lee's plan was to basically interfere with that. I know I'm oversimplifying, but that's the gist of it.

Wills wasn't involved in the fighting, though he was certainly impacted by it. During the thick of things, many of the community's citizens fled - Gettysburg was home to a large number of free black persons, either escaped slaves or those who were born free in the north, and slave hunters did not care much about the distinction between the two. There was a strong risk of being captured and dragged south. Many of those who remained took refuge in the cellar of the Wills house. The front of the house is pictured at left. Once the three fateful days were over, and the Confederate troops began the retreat, the people of Gettysburg emerged and had to deal with the mess left behind by both armies, particularly the large number of dead.

It was Wills who came up with the idea of turning the battlefield into a national cemetery, a place of honor where current and future generations of Americans could come and pay their respects to those who made the ultimate sacrifice. He suggested to Governor Andrew Gregg Curtin that Pennsylvania establish "a common burial ground" for the dead, an idea supported by all of the states who had lost valiant sons in the three days of battle. He was put in charge of procuring the land on behalf of the commonwealth, making all the arrangements and settling all the details. 17 acres of Adams County soil would be forever preserved as the Soldiers' National Cemetery, the first of its kind in the United States. 

A great dedication ceremony was planned, and Edward Everett was invited to speak. This was kind of a big deal; Everett was a former president of Harvard College and, at the time, was the single most sought-after speaker in the country. They actually delayed the ceremony until he had an opening in his speaking schedule and could be there. While they waited for that, Wills had the idea that maybe they should also invite the President to speak at this ceremony. Lincoln was a busy guy, seeing as how the war was still in progress and everything, but they reached out to him and he decided to take a train up to Pennsylvania and be on hand for the event, accepting the burgess's invitation to stay in his home.

Lincoln arrived at the Gettysburg train station on November 18, 1863, accompanied by a handful of other Washington notables. He was welcomed by David Wills and a number of other admirers, and escorted up the street (on foot - the station, seen at right, still stands and is only about two blocks from the Wills house) to the square which would later be named in his honor. At the Wills house he was introduced to Governor Curtin, Edward Everett, and other visiting dignitaries, then shown into the spacious guest room which was his for the duration of his visit. It was in that guest room, late at night, that he put the finishing touches on what history would long remember as the Gettysburg Address. The dedication was held the following day, with a crowd of more than 10,000 listening to the various speakers. After the ceremony concluded, the Marine Band escorted the President and a lengthy parade back through the town to the Wills house for a celebratory banquet, at which Lincoln was able to meet several townspeople, including veterans of the very battle in question.

Lincoln returned to Washington, the war crawled to an end, and the recovery efforts continued. Today, the Gettysburg battlefield and national cemetery remains one of the most significant locations in all of Pennsylvania for its place in history. As for David Wills, he died on October 25, 1894, and is buried in his beloved Gettysburg - not in the national cemetery, though. His house eventually became the property of the Gettysburg Foundation; it was renovated in 2009 and opened as a museum. Visitors can see the office Wills used for his law practice and the bedroom in which Abraham Lincoln wrote his magnum opus. A bronze copy of the speech is mounted beside the front door, just in case visitors need a refresher on the wording. Unfortunately, the museum is currently closed because of the pandemic, so taking a tour was not an option for us; however, I did find a video, linked in the resource section at the bottom, which lets us see some of the interior.

Outside of the house, on Lincoln Square, stands a unique statue known as Return Visit. Lincoln holds his famous hat in one hand and has his other hand on the shoulder of a modern man, who holds a copy of the Gettysburg Address. This is regarded as the single most authentic statue of Lincoln ever produced. The sculptor, J. Seward Johnson, Jr., used actual casts of Lincoln's face and hands to form those parts, and the suit and shoes Lincoln wears are patterned after items from his actual wardrobe. It was dedicated on November 19, 1991, the 128th anniversary of the Gettysburg Address. At the dedication, Johnson explained that he regarded Lincoln as "a person of great dignity and vision" and that he wanted to sculpt him so that he might "live amongst us and among the coming generations of Americans. We welcome him back here today, to breathe new life into his message of equality and dignity for all."

In many ways, Lincoln never really left Gettysburg.





Sources and Further Reading:

"Gettysburg Road Tripping With Paige: The David Wills House." YouTube video created by Destination Gettysburg, November 8, 2016.







Except where indicated, all writing and photography on this blog is the intellectual property of Laura Klotz. This blog is written with permission of the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission. I am not employed by the PHMC. All rights reserved.

No comments:

Post a Comment

I would love to hear from you!